Traveling in The Alps: Julier Pass

When traveling the Alps, a historic route to take is the Julier Pass connecting the lowlands of the canton of Grisons with the high valley of the Engadin. The pass is kept open all year round and is equally breathtaking in winter and summer. 

Correctly said, the Julier Pass starts in Bivio at 1769 m (5800 ft.) in the west to arrive in Silvaplana at 1815 m (5950 ft.) in the east. But it has become common usage to include the Julier Road leading from Tiefencastel at 859 m (2800 ft.) to Bivio in the term.

Tiefencastel is the place where the Julia River and the Albula River meet. The Julier Road and Pass follow the Julia up into the mountains. The Road takes you past the Lake Marmorera Reservoir, an artificial lake filled in 1954 to gain water for the production of electricity. Before the lake was filled, the population of the village Marmorera (now usually called ‘old’ Marmorera) was evacuated to the new village and all major buildings were blown up.

In a very dry summer when the lake level drops to a low level, you are able to see the shadows of walls in the depth of the lake. When I saw them, it reminded me of the Lord of the Rings, where the dead faces stare from marshy lakes at Frodo. It felt unreal and slightly threatening.

After Marmorera you arrive at Bivio. Bivio translates to ‘crossroad’; here, the Julier Road ends and travelers have to decide if they want to follow the Julier Pass going east or the Septimer Pass going south. If you care to stop in Bivio, you are able to see the antique remains of both passes and the cart ruts left by the Romans. Bivio is the only Italian speaking community north of the Alps.

From Bivio the Julier Pass ascends to its highest point and the Hospice at 2284 m (7500 ft.). Near the Hospice, the remains of a roman temple have been found and remains of it can be seen there. The pass had been in use since the Bronze Age and through Roman times as testified by numerous archaeological finds. After the Romans, the Julier wasn’t much used as the Albula Pass to the north took over as the main road into the Engadin. Between 1820 and 1826, a road was built on the Julier. The road followed the original Julier Road and Pass in most parts.

Take time for a break at the Hospice. It is situated on a little lake a short distance from the highest point of the pass marked by two Roman columns. The water from this lake will eventually flow into the Rhine River and the North Sea. The small river you will follow while descending to Silvaplana though will join the Inn, the Danube, and in the end the Black Sea. You are standing on a European water divide.

After the hospice, you drive over a long high plateau before coming to the steep descent towards Silvaplana. The descent offers you the view of the Upper Engadin and its mountains in panoramic view. 

Further reading
History in The Alps: Bernina Pass
History in The Alps: Fluela Pass
History of the FIS Alpine Ski World Championship