Travelling in The Alps: Albula Pass

The Albula Pass is a historical throw-back for the traveler. It presents itself today as it did in 1865 when the road was built. Along it runs the historical train route built in 1903 with its stunning viaducts. And in winter, it becomes an enormous sledge run. 

The Albula Pass connects the lower reaches of the Canton of Grisons in Switzerland with the high valley of Engadin. It starts in the North in Alvaneu at 1,181 m (3,900 ft) at leads to La Punt in the Engadin at 1,687 m (5,500 ft). Its highest point is at 2,312 m (7,600 ft) marks the water divide between the Rhine to the North Sea and the Inn to the Black Sea.

The pass was used already in the Bronze Age, but it was never of any major importance up to the late Middle Ages. At that time it became a main pass for the transport of salt from the Tyrol and wines from the Valtellina Valley. But compared to the Julier and Septimer Passes it was still minor. This changed when the inhabitants of Bergün paid for a road to be built from the North to their village in 1695.

In 1865, a carriage worthy road was built over the Albula. It didn’t use the old path in most places but was and still is a masterpiece of 19th century engineering. The road lost any importance with the building of the train route in 1903. The road today is basically the same as in 1865 and worth following for that fact alone. Along the way you may admire the natural stone constructions for bridges and walls as well as the drainage system along the road.

The train construction is a masterpiece as well and was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 2008. The construction at first seemed to ruin the local economy, but within only a few years, the locals had adjusted their businesses to tourism. Today the route is a typical tourist trail for both car and train enthusiasts. And train enthusiasts should take the road as well at least once to gawp at the numerous viaducts crisscrossing each other while taking the trains higher and higher up.

Above Filisur lie the ruins of Castle Greifenstein. In 1323, Baron Donat of Vaz held the castle against a superior force of the Hapsburg and their ally the Bishop of Chur. He is one of the local heroes for this feat as he kept the Engadin out of Hapsburg hands and influence. His troops had been stealthily augmented by the Swiss Confederation in their determination to weaken the Hapsburg influence in the Alps.

He pass is closed to traffic from November to June. Snow permitting, the pass is converted into a huge sledging slope from Preda to Bergün. The Rhaetische Bahn trains take you to Preda where they also offer sledges for rent. The slope is 5 km (3 miles) long and takes you down to Bergün where the sledge may be returned and the train will take you home again. Thanks to the street lighting, it is a marvelous night adventure to undertake in the deep of winter.

If you are short on time and have to decide on one of the passes to use to get into the Engadin, the Albula Pass should be your choice. 

Further reading
History in The Alps: Bernina Pass
History in The Alps: Fluela Pass
History of The FIS Alpine World Ski Championship