Forgotten City of Kings: Solothurn

We all know London, where the kings and queens of England were crowned and where the United Kingdom crowns kings and queens today still; most might know Aachen as the place where the kings of the Eastern Franks were crowned, and Rome, where the Emperors and Empresses of Rome and later the Holy Roman Empire were crowned. But do you know Solothurn, where the kings of Burgundy were crowned for over 500 years?

Solothurn is a small Swiss city off the beaten track of tourists. Bypassed by the main motorway connecting Basel and Zurich to Bern and Geneva, it is easily overlooked by the busy traveler. For several reasons, travelers should take the opportunity to visit it. It is one of those places where history was made, and due to its dwindling importance after the French Revolution, it is a bit of a time capsule. Most of the buildings that can be seen in the city center date from the 16th to the 18th century.

Solothurn started out as a Roman castellum guarding a bridge over the Aar River. It became an important staging station for everyone traveling from Geneva in the South to Vindonissa (Windisch) and Augusta Raurica (Augst) in the North. It later formed part of the kingdom of the Franks and eventually fell to the kings of Burgundy. Queen Berta of Burgundy founded the monastery of St Ursus in the city in 932 making it an important pilgrimage site. 

When Emperor Conrad II of the Holy Roman Empire inherited the kingdom of Burgundy in 1032, he started to use Solothurn as a convenient city at the northern edge of the kingdom for coronations and meetings. From 1038 into the 16th century, Emperors would travel to Solothurn on their accession to the Empire to be crowned as kings of Burgundy. By inheritance treaty, Burgundy was not a part of the Empire and was held in personal union by the reigning Emperor.

Central to the city’s life and self-esteem is the cathedral of St Ursus; it serves the Bishop of Basel who has his seat in the city. It forms the center piece of one of the most complete baroque cities to be found north of the Alps. Besides the cathedral, there are numerous period buildings to be admired all clustered together; the Jesuit church and the clock tower are inspiring, while the Basel Gate gives an idea of the city’s impressive wall enclosure. The historic city center will give you an idea of how small capital cities were in the pre-industrial era. And it can all be done on foot quite easily.
 
A walk through Solothurn is a relaxing affair, with beautiful shops, cafes and public spaces to take a rest. Amuse your children with the search for the city’s famous 11; there are 11 churches and chapels, 11 fountains, and 11 museums to be found; and there is a tower clock showing only 11 hours. If you are up for more things to do with 11, try the local beer by that name, or study the cathedral’s facade; it is three times 11 meters wide and the tower rises to six times 11 meters height. It was also built in 11 years from 1762 to 1773.
 
Solothurn can be reached by train from the airports in Basel, Zurich, and Geneva; if you drive by car, the main motorway linking Basel and Zurich with Bern will bring you to there too; the city is only a few kilometers from the motorway. If you prefer a more leisurely approach, you can travel by boat from Biel/Bienne. 

Further reading
Good Queen Berta in Switzerland
Museum City: Basel
City on The Language Divide: Fribourg